![]() ![]() ![]() Instead, if you see a lot of zeroes everywhere, something is wrong with your connections. Take a look at the GettingStarted example in the documentation for all the details. This will load up the GettingStarted example. Unzip the archive in to your ‘libraries’ folder under your sketch folder (mine is in /home/users/maniacbug/Source/Arduino/libraries), and restart the Arduino IDE.įrom the File menu, select “Examples”, then “RF24”, and finally “GettingStarted”. There is ample documentation at that link, as well as a pointer to the downloads page. Again, click through for even bigger images. Here’s what it looks like with all the wires in place, up close and personal. The 2×4-pin male header goes in position K16-N15.The 6-pin male header goes in position V13-18.The 8-pin male header goes in position C09-16.I also cut an extra green wire I decided not to use in this tutorial. In this picture, I am using a pair of 4-pin female headers instead of a 2×4 female header. Here’s what it looks like all ready to go. If you use the 7cm wires from iTeadStudio, it’s OK, you’ll just have a little extra wire in the way. Cut off two chunks of the male headers, lengths of 6 and 8 pins. We only need one of the 2×4 pin female headers. Reasonable substitutes for this stuff can also be found at Sparkfun if you like spending a lot more money. Solder cable – 7cm (10pcs) $0.50 (Or get some wire at Home Depot and cut it yourself).Obviously, you’ll want to buy two of the radios and protoboards because what good is a radio that can only talk to itself? A great place to start is the iTeadStudio store. ![]() Stuff we needįirst, we have to go shopping. Today, I want to make it easy for total beginners to get up and running on nRF24L01+ radios quickly and easily. Unfortunately, they can be a little daunting to beginners to get started. However, we are still willing to help you.Nordic’s nRF24L01+ 2.4GHz RF radios are a great way to communicate wirelessly between Arduino’s. ![]() As Jim said, it is not reasonable to expect us to figure out how to get your project working on our own, though we did look around to see if we have any nrf24L01 modules around the office (unfortunately, we don’t). It sounds like you are giving up on trying to get this to work yourself, which is unfortunate. Has the NRF24L01 module ever worked with your Arduino Uno before you tried using it with an A-Star? However, it is difficult to help you troubleshoot if you are not willing to verify that your modules are functional. You do not have to change connections for the chip-enable (CE) and chip-select (CS) pins, but you will need to connect SCK, MOSI, and MISO to the correct SPI pins (pins 15, 16, and 14, respectively) on the A-Star.Ĭonsidering that the RF24 library is “fully compatible with Arduino Boards” (quoted from this page of the documentation) and it works with other Arduino boards (as Jim stated), I suspect the library will also work with our Arduino-compatible A-Star controllers. The A-Star uses the ATmega32U4, which is similar to the Arduino Leonardo not the Arduino Uno. You can find all of the hardware SPI pins on the A-Star’s ISP header and look at the pinout and components section for your A-Star version in its user’s guide as reference.Īlso please note, that the SPI pins on the A-Star do not correspond to the same SPI pins on the Arduino Uno. It sounds like the SPI pins on your A-Star 32U4 can be connected to the NRF24L01 module without having to modify the RF24 library. These pins must be chosen and designated by the user, in RF24 radio(ce_pin,cs_pin) and can use any available pins. RF24 makes use of the standard hardware SPI pins (MISO,MOSI,SCK) and requires two additional pins, to control the chip-select and chip-enable functions. I briefly glanced at the documentation (that you linked in your most recent post) and noticed at the top of the “Related Pages” tab: ![]()
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